Traveling by TukTuk through Sri Lanka
AsiaSri Lanka, formerly Ceylon, is an island nation in the Indian Ocean. Its friendly people, beautiful scenery, and delicious food have made it one of my favorite countries in Asia. In this blog post, you'll read all about the best places and my experience riding a tuktuk through Sri Lanka.
Transport in Sri Lanka
As the title suggests, the number one mode of transportation in Sri Lanka is the tuktuk. Uniquely, you can drive one yourself in Sri Lanka (and also in Cambodia). It was truly fantastic to have the freedom to stop along the way whenever we saw elephants or beautiful viewpoints, for example.
We rented our tuktuk through Tuktukrental (no sponsor) and were very satisfied. Tuktukrental doesn't own any tuktuks themselves, but rents them from locals. The daily rate includes insurance, and communication is smooth. We had a few breakdowns and/or needed minor repairs on the tuktuk, and Tuktukrental is available 24/7 to help. While it sounds serious, it's actually quite quick and part of the tuktuk rental experience. Most locals are also happy to help if something goes wrong with your tuktuk.
The maximum speed limit for tuktuks is 40 kilometers per hour. Driving faster is also not recommended in some tuktuks, as they make a lot of noise and are less comfortable. Driving at night is not recommended, as the tuktuk's lights aren't optimal. Driving a tuktuk, and especially shifting gears, takes some practice, but after a few days of driving, you'll quickly get used to it. On the roads, the rule is that the biggest rules: larger vehicles will quickly overtake you and often use their horns when doing so.
The ultimate tuktuk route
We completed the route below in September. Due to the monsoon, we first headed north, then inland and east, finally ending in the south and west. Depending on the monsoon, you can adjust the trip. The route below was completed over four weeks. Travel time varied between 3 and 6 hours. Stopovers can, of course, be added according to your preferences.
Pick up tuktuk in Negombo
Start your trip in Negombo, where the Tuktukrental headquarters are located. It's recommended that you don't pick up your tuktuk immediately on the day of your arrival, so you can rest a bit before the first few kilometers of driving. Although Negombo doesn't have many sights to see, it's still fun to wander around. Keep in mind that when you pick up your tuktuk, you'll also receive a (crash) course in tuktuk driving, so you won't be able to leave immediately. Picking up your tuktuk early is preferable if you plan to travel a long distance on the first day.
Restaurant tip: Boho Café
The BOHO Café has a beautiful interior and serves delicious food. The menu includes things like pad Thai and the traditional dish "kottu." Be warned: Kottu is delicious, but it can also be heavy on the stomach.
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Spotting wild animals in Wilpattu
There are several national parks in Sri Lanka, and choosing where to go can be difficult. We visited Wilpattu National Park because the other well-known park in the southeast (Yala), where you can also spot leopards, was only partially open in September. We also chose to visit a national park at the beginning of our trip so that, if we hadn't seen all the animals, we had the option of visiting another one.
Our half-day safari tour started at 5:30 a.m., giving us the best chance of seeing certain animals. It's also possible to book a full-day safari tour, which allows you to spend a few more hours driving around the park. However, being in the back of a (bumpy) jeep is quite intense, so the half-day safari tour is recommended. The park is home to wild boars, deer, monkeys, and various bird species. With a bit of luck, you might also see elephants, slothbears, and leopards!
Accommodation tip: Cloud Nine Wilpattu by Aaradhya
You'll stay in a beautiful house surrounded by monkeys in the jungle. It's also wonderful to relax by the pool. Please note that, because you're in the jungle, you'll need to arrange your lunch and dinner through the resort (or do your grocery shopping before arrival).
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Option: Visit temples in Anuradhapura
Anuradhapura is a city with many temples. However, they are spread throughout the city, making it convenient to choose a few. For example, you can visit the Isurumuniya Temple and drive or cycle past the Sri Maha Bodhi Temple. The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is the most noteworthy attraction. This is a sacred tree over 2,300 years old, said to be a branch of the Bodhi Tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment. Both tourists and locals visit this place.
Stopover: Mihintale
This mountain peak is located near Anuradhapura. It's a special Buddhist sacred site. If you have time, it's recommended to add it as a stopover to your itinerary. You can visit several temples and a rock formation here, allowing you to see a variety of sights in one place.
View on Google MapsDeer spotting in Trincomalee
After Anuradhapura, we traveled on to Trincomalee, a charming coastal town in eastern Sri Lanka. It's recommended to book your accommodation in the Uppuveli area: this is where you'll find the nicest restaurants and accommodations (and the most tourists). Fernando's Beach Bar is a popular spot where you can relax and order food from various beach bars. It's also wonderful to spend a day relaxing on the beach.
If you want to see the "real city," drive towards Fort Frederik, where you can visit the Thirukoneswaram Kovil temple. Tip: along the way, also stop at the beautifully colored Shri Badrakali Amman Hindu Kovil temple. A special feature of Trincomalee is the abundance of deer and roe deer. These migrated to the city during the war because it was quieter there. You can see many of these animals around the deer park. Note: drive carefully around the park.
For delicious food in Trincomalee, go here:
Rice'n curry
For the most delicious (vegetarian) curry buffet, Rice'n Curry is the place to be.
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Snack bar hawaii
Despite its name, this isn't a snack bar. The menu includes a delicious mango curry and avocado toast.
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Climbing rocks in Sigiriya
Sigiriya is home to one of Sri Lanka's most famous landmarks: Lion Rock. Although it's the most famous attraction, many people don't visit this rock itself, but rather the neighboring Pidurangala Rock. From this rock, you have a magnificent view of Lion Rock (and you pay less entrance fee). Climb the rock early in the morning for a beautiful sunrise. At the end of the hiking trail, you have to climb through some narrow rock, but it's easily manageable. Also, keep in mind that you can't hike (on your own) in Sigiriya after dark due to the wild elephants that roam there. Most accommodations can arrange transportation to Pidurangala Rock.
Sigiri Rock Side Home Stay
Stay here for the most delicious Sri Lankan breakfast (in abundance). The staff is also very friendly, and you can also book a fun (and delicious) Sri Lankan cooking class!
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Sunset and view point
If you haven't had enough rock climbing yet, it's also a great idea to take a short walk to the "Sunset and Viewpoint." As the name suggests, you can enjoy a beautiful sunset here with views of Lion Rock and the vast jungle. The walk begins at Mapagala Fortress. There's no entrance fee for this activity.
View on Google MapsOption: Visit the city of Kandy
During our trip, we also spent a night in Kandy. In retrospect, we would have preferred to drive straight through, as it wasn't our kind of city. We found it very touristy and had to get used to the busy and chaotic city. Around the market and the lake, there are various vendors, all telling the same story. If you're looking for a more lively experience, Kandy can be a good stopover.
Hideout Lounge
Be sure to eat at the Hideoute Lounge when you're in Kandy. They have delicious dishes on the menu, and the cozy interior with its fireplace is very inviting.
View on Google MapsStopover: Ambuluwawa tower
This 48-meter-high tower gradually narrows, offering 360-degree views of the jungle. If you have time, you can visit this tower from Kandy. It's about an hour's drive away and you could even add it as a stopover to your itinerary.
View on Google MapsOption: English life in Nuwara Eliya
Sri Lanka is famous for the train ride from Kandy to Ella. Although this is reportedly a fantastic journey, we opted to drive to Ella via Nuwara Eliya. The tuktuk also takes you along a beautiful route through the mountains, past waterfalls and tea plantations. If you prefer a more leisurely pace, this is certainly an option. If you do want to take the train ride, you can ask Tuktukrental to drive your tuktuk to Ella, so you can continue your journey in your own tuktuk afterwards.
The town of Nuwara Eliya is also called "little England," as it was discovered in 1818 by a Briton who found the landscape reminiscent of England. Consequently, the weather is also English: humid and rainy. This, however, means you're surrounded by beautiful greenery. The town's highlights are the English Post Office and Gregory Park. You can also visit Lover's Leap Waterfall, a half-hour walk from town. From Nuwara Eliya, you can also visit the beautiful and well-known Hortons Plains nature reserve, about an hour away.
Beautiful nature in Ella
Ella is a popular tourist destination, and it shows: there are many bars and restaurants serving Western dishes alongside Sri Lankan cuisine. There are also plenty of shops selling nice clothing and souvenirs.
Holiday Homes Guest Inn
Here you will find neat rooms with a delicious breakfast and a beautiful view, just outside the hustle and bustle of Ella.
View on Google MapsElla is known for its beautiful Nine Arch Bridge (also known as the Bridge in the Sky). Another popular attraction is climbing Little Adams Peak at sunset for stunning views of the tea plantations and mountains. Note: There had just been a fire during my visit to Little Adams Peak in September 2024, so the photos show that only half of the mountain is green.
Like Nuwara Eliya, Ella is nestled among numerous tea plantations. A visit to a tea plantation is therefore a must when visiting Ella. We booked two tours with Halpewatte, and they were very interesting. Besides picking tea leaves (and especially taking photos), we were given a tour of the factory and learned how to make different types of tea from tea leaves.
The Calypso train ride is a good alternative if you haven't taken the Kandy-Ella train or if you'd like to travel by train again. From Demodara, you board the Calypso train, which loops around Ella for three hours, passing beautiful green mountains. As a highlight, the train stops right in the middle of the Nine Arch Bridge. There's even a bar on board, and halfway through the journey, there's live music on the open deck. You can book your tickets online. When booking, keep in mind that the train stops twice at some locations, so you'll need to carefully consider your starting and ending points.
My tips for delicious food in Ella:
The Happy Couple
Here you can order a delicious Sri Lankan buffet, among other things. The atmosphere in the garden is very cozy.
View on Google MapsRainbow Cafe
This cozy lunch spot has multiple floors, offering views of the street. The menu includes vegan dishes.
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Cafe One Love
This café is located opposite the station. On the first floor, you can relax and/or sit on cushions. On the ground floor, you'll find a pool table.
View on Google MapsBeachlife in Arugam Bay
Keep an eye out for elephants when driving from Ella to Arugam Bay, as they're often spotted along the way. Arrugam Bay is another very pleasant beach resort on Sri Lanka's east coast.
Green Ocean Bay
Here you'll sleep in a spacious room with comfortable beds. The staff is very friendly and happy to provide tips for fun outings. The location is also perfect, as it's just outside the hustle and bustle, yet close enough to walk to the beach.
View on Google MapsThe surfing conditions around Arugam Bay are excellent, giving the town a relaxed atmosphere. One of the popular surf spots for beginners is Baby Point. Although this is a popular spot, it's not recommended to surf there as it can get very crowded. There are several other beaches around Arugam Bay where you can surf, even as a beginner. You can also relax and soak up the sun at one of the beach bars.
Besides being a well-known surfing spot, Elephant Rock is also a great place to watch the sunset. The tuktuk ride to this spot is also very enjoyable, although you do need to pay close attention in certain areas to avoid getting stuck in the sand. A unique feature of the water at Elephant Rock is that the river can meet the ocean here. Crocodiles can also swim in the river, so you (sometimes) need to be careful when swimming in the ocean.
My tips for eating and drinking in Arugam Bay:
Mambos Arugambay
During peak season (for Arugam Bay), there's a party every Saturday from 10 a.m. at Mambos. Many tourists (and some locals) gather here to party to the sounds of a DJ.
View on Google MapsYala National Park
If you haven't spotted enough elephants and/or leopards in Wilpattu yet, add Yala National Park to your itinerary here. Note: In some seasons, the entire park may not be open to visitors.
Surfing and yoga in Hirikiteya
Hirikiteya Beach is a beautiful bay surrounded by palm trees. Hiriketiya, also known as Hiri, is known primarily as a layback surf spot. From the charming restaurants, you can entertain yourself for hours watching the surfers or you can go surfing yourself on the waves, which are suitable for all levels. There are also plenty of yoga classes, and there are charming coffee shops where many "digital nomads" camp out. From Hiri, you can take a beautiful walk to Blue Beach Island: a peninsula you can walk to. You can also visit the "turtle point" at Dikwella Beach.
Dondra Head Lighthouse
Between Hiriketiya and Weligama you will find Dondra: a beautiful lighthouse located at the southernmost tip of Sri Lanka.
View on Google MapsViewing palm trees in Weligama
Weligama is larger and more expansive than Hirikiteya, but also very pleasant. You can also surf here, although the surroundings at Weligama are slightly less idyllic than those at Hirikiteya Bay. Around Weligama Bay, there are more beaches where you can surf or relax. Near the neighboring town of Mirissa, you'll find the well-known photo spot Coconut Tree Hill.
My tips for eating in Weligama:
THE SLOW - Vegan restaurant
After visiting 'coconut tree hill' you can have a delicious lunch here.
View on Google MapsIf you're in Weligama, we highly recommend booking a surfskating lesson at The Surf Club Sri Lanka. It's a truly fantastic activity! You'll get surfskating lessons in a beautiful setting just outside Weligama. They also offer fun surf lessons.
Walking through 'Dutch' Galle
Between Weligama and Negombo, you'll find the beautiful town of Galle. This port city also displays Dutch influences, reflecting the Dutch dominance here in the 17th and 18th centuries. For example, you'll find an originally Dutch church and a Dutch hospital. You can visit Galle as a day trip from Weligama, spend a few hours here while traveling, or stay overnight before driving back to Negombo. Note: Driving through Colombo can be very hectic and busy, so allow yourself plenty of time.
Lunch tip: MARU
For delicious bowls with a view over the 'Dutch fort' and the lighthouse.
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Traveling by tuktuk is highly recommended for discovering Sri Lanka's diverse landscapes, culture and beaches in a relaxed and adventurous way.
Useful information
Official Language: Sinhala, Tamil
Currency: Sri Lankan Rupee
Area: 65,610 km²
Best time to travel: Sri Lanka is generally accessible year-round, but the best time to visit depends on your interests. Keep in mind that there are two monsoons. For example, if you're looking for whale watching or surfing, the best time to visit is in the east or south (depending on monsoon). The peak tourist season begins in October and runs until April.
