The ultimate road trip through Albania
EuropeAlbania is becoming an increasingly popular destination for holidaymakers. This is partly due to its beautiful nature, clear waters, and friendly people. The country's relatively small size also makes it possible to explore it in about three weeks.
Transport in Albanië
The easiest way to get around in Albania, if you're not traveling with your own car, is to rent one. We rented a car from SunnyCars and were very pleased with it. We picked up the car within walking distance of Tirana airport. Most main roads were renovated a few years ago, making driving easy. However, on some sections of the route, you might encounter potholes or unpaved sections. People also sometimes cycle on the highways, and in Albania, they sometimes stop unexpectedly on or along the road. So, you need to pay close attention when driving.
Buses and minibuses also operate in Albania. Many of these buses are somewhat outdated and originate from other European countries. They run according to a timetable or only depart when full. Payment can be made on the bus. Most buses depart in the morning or early afternoon and go to destinations such as Tirana, Shkodër, Durrës, Vlorë, Sarandë, Ksamil, and Gjirokastër.
The nicest places
Discover the enchanting north of Albania
The colorful mountain town of Krujë
Krujë is relatively close to Tirana Airport. This colorful mountain town is just a half-hour drive away. It's a lovely place to spend the night, perhaps on your first or last night in Albania. Krujë is small, so I personally wouldn't recommend staying there for more than one night. The town has a lovely cobbled shopping street with authentic shops. Krujë Castle also offers stunning views, both from above and from the castle itself. The castle also houses a museum, which you can visit for 500 lek.
Beautiful castles and bridges in Shkodër
Shkodër is an excellent place for a stopover, or you can stay overnight before continuing your journey to other destinations. Day trips are offered from Shkodër to breathtaking Lake Komani, with its fjord-like landscapes, or to the picturesque Shala River, which is popular with hikers. Shkodër is also an excellent base for those planning the famous hike from Valbonë to Theth. You can travel to Valbonë by bus, possibly via Lake Komani, and leave your car in Shkodër.
Shkodër is one of the oldest cities in Albania, and this is reflected in the city. Here you can admire the longest Ottoman bridge in the region. A visit to the historic Rozafa Castle is also definitely worthwhile. From the castle, you have a beautiful view of the city and nearby Lake Shkodër. Parking is available (when it's not too busy) above the castle entrance. The castle costs 400 lek to visit, and the museum costs an additional 200 lek.
Breathtaking nature in Theth
Theth is a beautiful mountain village in northern Albania, surrounded by the mountains of the Albanian Alps. The village is picturesquely situated along a small river with icy, crystal-clear water. During the summer months, the village is easily accessible thanks to a road renovated in 2018. At the very end of the village, a new bridge has been built, meaning you only have to drive a short distance on unpaved road. This is useful to know, as this bridge is not yet displayed as a route option on Google Maps. Keep in mind that the road to Theth is frequently closed due to snowfall during the winter months.
A visit to Theth's idyllic church and the nearby waterfall is a must-do when you're here. Many travelers choose to stay overnight in Theth after completing the famous hike from Valbonë. The reverse route is also possible, but most hikers start in Valbonë, so the steepest part of the climb is right at the beginning and the descent is less strenuous. This spectacular mountain hike is officially open from June to October, when the trails are clear of snow and the views are at their best.
History, culture and conviviality in Tirana
In Tirana, Albania's capital, you can learn a lot about Albania's impressive history. Several museums offer information about the country's relatively recent communist period. The BunkArt-2 museum (cost: 700 Lek) is recommended for an in-depth look at this period. You can also visit the House of Leaves, which focuses on espionage, or the National Historical Museum. For another museum visit, consider the BunkArt-1 museum, located just outside the city.
In Tirana itself, you'll encounter numerous unique art objects and striking buildings, such as the airy "Reja The Cloud" and the iconic Pyramid of Tirana, which has become a creative hub. Both are definitely worth a visit and offer a beautiful glimpse into the city's modern side. Markets and cultural events regularly take place around the lively Skanderbeg Square, ensuring the square is always bustling with activity. In the charming Blloku district, you'll also find numerous trendy lunch spots and atmospheric cafés where you can relax. A stroll through this district will also lead you past Enver Hoxha's former home, a remarkable reminder of Albania's recent history.
Green & Protein
At green & protein in Bllok you can enjoy bowls, salads and delicious juices.
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Radio Bar
The Radio Bar is a cozy bar with a covered courtyard, where you can drink delicious cocktails and enjoy good music.
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When in Tirana, a stroll through the expansive Grand Park is a must. This green heart of the city is perfect for escaping the hustle and bustle, whether you stroll along the large artificial lake or relax in the shade under a tree. A great tip for the summer months: for just 300 lek, you can enjoy films in the open-air cinema. The films are dubbed into Albanian, but English subtitles are usually available, making them easy for everyone to follow. For the current program, check out the Instagram page of "Open Air Tirana."
Crystal clear water along the coast
Boat trip and the old city center of Himarë
Himarë is a charming coastal town with a laid-back atmosphere, where you can fully enjoy cozy beach bars, charming restaurants, and the clear blue waters of the Ionian Sea. From Himarë, you can easily plan a boat trip, canoe trip, or day trip to the beautiful surrounding beaches and caves. Popular spots like Pigeons Cave, the impressive Gjipe Beach, and the wide, tranquil Palasa Beach are all within easy reach. Himarë itself also offers plenty to do: for around 800 lek, you can relax on a beach lounger and soak up the sun, sea, and views.
When you're in Himarë, it's also recommended to visit the "real" Himarë, which sits atop the mountain. Here you'll find the old town center and enjoy stunning views of the coast. You can park in a small square at the end of the road. If a parking attendant is present, parking and a visit to the old town cost 300 Lek. The nearby village of Dhërmi is also worth a visit. Dhërmi also boasts an old town center where you can enjoy a lovely stroll among the white houses with orange roofs.
Day trips from touristic Sarandë
When traveling from Himarë (or another coastal town) towards Sarandë, it's definitely worth stopping at the historic Palermo Fortress (entrance fee: 300 lek) and the nearby Qeparo beach, where you can enjoy a tranquil bay with clear blue water.
Sarandë is a larger and therefore more touristy town than Himarë. There are many lovely restaurants and cafes, and you can easily spend a few days here. Sarandë is also a good base for exploring other attractions in the area. From Sarandë, you can even take a day or multi-day trip to the Greek island of Corfu. This allows you to combine your visit to Albania with a short excursion to a Greek island.
Also, don't forget to visit the impressively blue waters of Syri i Kalter, also known as the Blue Eye (entrance: 50 lek, parking from 100 lek). This unique nature reserve is about a 45-minute drive from Sarandë and is definitely worth a detour. Be sure to take the full walk around the lake: the path leads you through a peaceful forest and offers stunning views of the crystal-clear water.
From Sarandë, it's about a half-hour drive to the nearby coastal town of Ksamil, one of Albania's most popular beach destinations. The village is known for its beautiful white beaches, crystal-clear water, and three small islands, which can be reached by a short boat trip or even by swimming. It can get quite crowded during the summer months, but in mid-September it was surprisingly manageable, and we had a wide selection of sunbeds. These typically cost around 500 to 1000 lek per set, depending on the beach and its amenities.
From Sarandë, you can also take a day trip to the archaeological site of Butrint, one of Albania's most important historical sites. Although our visit was somewhat disappointing, mainly because it was mostly ruins and the information provided was limited, it remains a special place due to its centuries-old history and its location in the heart of a beautiful nature reserve. The entrance fee is 1000 lek per person.
The charm of Albania's mountain villages
Historic Gjirokaster
Gjirokastër is a beautiful mountain town with centuries-old houses, cobbled streets, and charming, colorful shops. You can visit the city from Sarandë, perhaps in combination with a visit to Syri i Kalter, or spend a night in this beautiful city. From Gjirokastër Castle, you have a magnificent view of the traditional-style houses. You reach the castle by climbing the stairs and paying an entrance fee of 400 lek. If you also want to visit the museum, it costs an additional 200 lek. If you want to see a traditional-style house up close, you can visit the more than three-hundred-year-old "Skenduli House."
Vojsava Restaurant
We had a delicious Albanian lunch overlooking a picturesque cobbled street at Vojsava Restaurant. The staff was very friendly and the dishes were affordable.
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Berat: the city of a thousand windows
Another charming mountain town, located slightly further north than Gjirokastër, is Berat. This town is known as the "city of a thousand windows," a nickname that refers to the characteristic, tiered houses built into the hillside, whose many windows glow beautifully in the sunlight. Besides the whitewashed Ottoman houses, Berat also boasts a striking red mosque, which creates a beautiful contrast with the bright buildings surrounding it. At the very top of the town lies the ancient castle, which is definitely not to be missed. From the castle walls, you have a magnificent view of the town, the surrounding hills, and the river in the valley.
Albania's undiscovered southeast: Korçë and Pogradec
Southeastern Albania is still somewhat less explored than the rest of the country, but just as impressive. The roads are sometimes a bit rougher, but that's precisely why it feels like you're driving into a piece of untouched Albania. The nature here is truly magnificent, with vast valleys, mountains, and small villages nestled among the greenery. The city of Korçë, nestled in the Morava Mountains, is the cultural heart of this region. Korçë is known for its museums, charming streets, and historic center. In the heart of the city, you'll find the "Old Bazaar," a charming square surrounded by buildings in both Romanesque and Ottoman style, where you'll find cafés, shops, and local market stalls.
About a 45-minute drive from Korçë lies Pogradec, on the shores of stunning Lake Ohrid: one of the oldest and deepest lakes in the world. Here you can relax on the beach, take a refreshing dip, or explore the city and its green surroundings by bike.
Albania is made for a versatile road trip: from crystal clear waters and cultural cities to beautiful nature.
Useful information
Official language: Albanian
Currency: Albanian Lek (1 euro is approximately 105 lek)
Area: 28,748 km²
Best time to travel: The best weather in Albania is between June and September. You can also enjoy beautiful weather in May, September, and early October. In some mountainous areas, snow can remain until June, making some roads less passable. July and August are often quite busy in Albania. We visited in mid-September and had beautiful weather, warm seawater, and quiet beaches. From mid-September, some restaurants and beach bars close, but there are still plenty of other lovely places to explore during this time.
